Online Boutique L 398

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The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 19th century.

Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they carve the leather by hand.

Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.

As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.

The line combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the mid-20th century, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.

Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as a defining name in English shoemaking.

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